2026/09/22 台灣朝聖之路－山海圳騎跡6日 D5｜走進霧中鐵道，循著森林的記憶前進

今日路線：達邦→達邦吊橋→特富野部落→特富野庫巴→巴沙娜聯絡道→十字路→自忠→特富野古道北段→鹿林神木→台18線92K東埔線鐵路隧道→阿里山國家森林遊樂區 08：00離開達邦，搭乘接駁車展開山海圳第五天行程。經過昨夜休息，雙腿雖仍留著里美避難步道的痠痛，心情卻已隨著山間晨光再次振奮。第一站來到橫跨曾文溪上游的達邦吊橋，晨霧在溪谷間緩緩飄移，橋身懸於青山綠水之間，走在橋上，腳下是溪流切割出的深邃河谷，回頭則是山嵐環抱的鄒族部落；吊橋微微搖晃，喚醒了身體，也為今日的森林旅程揭開序幕。 接著前往特富野部落，參觀鄒族現存兩座重要庫巴之一的特富野庫巴。庫巴不只是一棟建築，更是鄒族男子學習文化知識、狩獵技能與部落規範的重要場所，也是祭儀、議事及凝聚族人精神的神聖空間。對鄒族而言，庫巴承載著祖先留下的制度與信仰，屋頂中央延伸向天際的結構，象徵天神降臨人間的神聖通道；站在庫巴前，必須收起遊客匆促獵奇的腳步，以尊重的心仰望這座部落文化的精神核心。 庫巴外有一座醒目的帝雉塑像。帝雉又稱黑長尾雉，是台灣特有的珍貴鳥類，也常出沒於阿里山中高海拔森林。對鳥類頗有研究的英敏大哥當場開起自然教室，從羽色、外形談到帝雉被發現與命名的故事，讓大家在欣賞雄鳥華麗深藍黑色羽毛與長尾之餘，也更了解這位「霧林王者」的生態特色。一場原本簡單的停留，因夥伴無私分享所知，成了旅途中最生動的知識補給站；旅行最迷人的地方，往往不是看過多少景點，而是同行的人讓眼前風景多了多少故事。 離開特富野庫巴後，原本計畫請熟悉路況的在地接駁車，載大家前往特富野古道南口，再由南向北完成古道健行。然而通往南口的產業道路年久失修，沿線路況極差，風災過後更有倒木、枯竹及坍方等風險，連熟悉山路的當地駕駛都視為畏途、不敢貿然接單。領隊考量全體安全，當機立斷調整路線，自行接駁繞行巴沙娜聯絡道，經十字路銜接台18線阿里山公路前往自忠，改由北口進入特富野古道，以原路往返方式探訪古道北段。旅途中的變動不一定是缺憾，有時願意退一步、換一條安全的路，反而能走得更遠，也更符合山海圳一路以來尊重山林、量力而行的精神。 踏進特富野古道，迎面而來的是帶著水氣的清涼山嵐，泥土、落葉與柳杉混合出森林特有的氣息。霧氣穿梭在筆直高聳的林木之間，光線被枝葉篩成柔和的色彩，舊鐵軌與枕木則沿著山腰延伸，彷彿一條通往過往歲月的時間隧道。這條全長約6.3公里的古道，早期是鄒族人的獵徑，日治時期部分路段改建成阿里山森林鐵路水山線，用來運送山區木材；如今伐木火車早已遠去，留下鐵道、木棧橋及工程遺跡，靜靜訴說山林開發的歷史。自忠端至3.7公里處地勢較為平緩，正是水山線舊鐵道保存最鮮明的一段。 大家花了約一個半小時走到3.7K岔路處，沿途在翁教練的解說下，觀察石牆平行砌與人字砌的差異，也看見昔日存放鐵道工具及零件的山洞遺跡。霧氣時濃時淡，前方夥伴的身影忽隱忽現，踩著濕潤枕木前進，耳邊除了腳步聲、鳥鳴與風聲，還不時傳來翁教練悠揚的口琴聲。旋律穿過柳杉林，在霧裡繚繞，讓這段昔日載運檜木的鐵道，多了一份溫柔的人情味。 抵達折返點後稍作休息，再花約一小時回到自忠入口。領隊早已準備好便當，還特別以棉被仔細包覆保溫，讓大家在雲霧籠罩的山巔，依然能吃到一口口溫熱的午餐。那不只是填飽肚子的飯菜，更是一份細心照顧夥伴的溫度。午餐後，我們也在自忠蒐集到山海圳國家綠道第7枚「阿里山鐵路」之章；印章落在護照上的瞬間，彷彿也為今日走過的舊鐵道、霧林與歷史蓋下了珍貴的見證。 午後改以單車續行，在寧靜的台18線阿里山公路上緩緩前進，拜訪樹齡約2,700年的鹿林神木。沿著步道下行，原本只在公路旁露出茂密樹冠的巨木，逐漸顯現令人屏息的宏偉身形；站在樹根旁抬頭仰望，樹幹直入雲霧，歲月彷彿在它身上凝結成深刻紋理。它在山林裡歷經千年風霜，見過部落遷徙、森林鐵路興衰與公路開通，如今仍以沉默而堅定的姿態守護山巒。面對這樣的生命，人顯得何其渺小，也更加明白，能留下來的巨木，不只是自然奇觀，更是一份需要世代共同珍惜的山林資產。 折返阿里山森林遊樂區途中，我們在台18線92K附近停下，探訪公路旁罕見的東埔線舊鐵路隧道。漆黑洞口隱身於草木之間，像一隻沉默的眼睛，凝望著昔日伐木產業的盛衰。過去在尚無公路的年代，人們鑿山開洞、鋪設鐵道，將珍貴檜木一車車運出森林；今日台18線取代了舊鐵路的運輸功能，載著遊客進入山區，昔日鐵道則成為歷史遺跡。站在洞口前，我們看見的不只是工程技術，更是森林資源被大規模開採的時代印記，也提醒後人：留下歷史，不是為了歌頌掠取，而是為了記住山林曾經承受的一切。 15：20全員平安抵達阿里山國家森林遊樂區，入住文山賓館。今日雖因南口道路狀況臨時變更行程，未能依照原計畫穿越整條特富野古道，卻沒有減少旅程的精彩。我們走過鄒族神聖的庫巴、認識霧林中的帝雉，踏上水山線舊鐵道，在口琴聲中穿越柳杉林，也仰望千年神木、凝視沉睡的鐵路隧道。安全的改道不是退縮，而是對山林的敬畏，也是對每位同行夥伴最重要的承諾。 山海圳之旅來到第五天，我們已從台江內海一路追隨水流，走過水圳、水庫、部落與森林，逐漸接近朝聖之路的最高目標。今晚讓雙腿好好休息，明日將迎來最終章，從阿里山走向塔塔加，沿著聖山之路一步步靠近玉山。在終點真正抵達以前，所有走過的路、流過的汗，以及彼此照顧的溫度，都已成為這趟旅程最值得珍藏的風景。 At 8:00 AM, we left Dabang and began Day 5 of our journey. Our first stop was Dabang Suspension Bridge, where morning mist drifted through the deep valley of the upper Zengwen River. We then visited Tefuye Village and its KUBA, one of the two important KUBA structures still preserved by the Tsou people. More than a building, the KUBA is a sacred center for traditional education, ceremonies, community affairs, and cultural heritage. Outside stood a statue of the Mikado pheasant, an endemic bird of Taiwan’s high mountain forests. One of our riders, Ying-Min, shared his knowledge of birds with the group, turning a simple stop into an unexpected nature lesson. Sometimes the people we travel with add just as much meaning to a journey as the places themselves. Our original plan was to enter the Tefuye Historic Trail from the southern trailhead and hike north. However, the access road was in very poor condition. For safety, we changed the route and drove via Bashana and Shizilu to Zizhong, entering from the northern trailhead instead. Walking into the forest felt like stepping back in time. Mist moved between towering cedar trees, while old railway tracks and wooden sleepers disappeared into the fog. Originally a traditional Tsou hunting trail, part of the route was later converted into the Shuishan railway line during the Japanese colonial period to transport timber. Today, the trains are gone, but the tracks, bridges, stonework, and railway remains still preserve memories of the forest’s past. We hiked for about 1.5 hours to the 3.7K junction before returning to Zizhong. Along the way, Coach Weng’s harmonica echoed gently through the misty forest, adding a warm human touch to the silent old railway. After a hot lunch prepared for us at Zizhong, we collected our 7th Mountains to Sea National Greenway passport stamp — “Alishan Railway.” In the afternoon, we continued by bike along the Alishan Highway to visit the Lulin Sacred Tree, estimated to be around 2,700 years old. Standing beneath this ancient giant was a powerful reminder of how small our own time is compared with the life of the forest. Near the 92K point of Highway 18, we also explored an old Dongpu Line railway tunnel, another remaining trace of Taiwan’s former logging era. Preserving these historic sites is not about celebrating the exploitation of the forest, but remembering what the mountains once endured. At 3:20 PM, everyone safely arrived at the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area. Although road conditions prevented us from completing the entire Tefuye Historic Trail, the day was no less meaningful. We visited a sacred Tsou KUBA, walked an old railway through the mist, stood beneath a 2,700-year-old tree, and traced the history of Alishan’s forest railway.