Bupsa to Chaurikharka, Nepal V (2026)

Monday, 27th April, 2026, Bupsa to Surke. I didn't sleep well last night, plagued by coughing, congestion, and a runny nose. On our way to Kharila Pass, we caught up with Matt, who'd set up his easel outside the attractive-looking Chamling Lodge Guesthouse on the hillside. Kharila Pass was a lot nicer than the last pass, not nearly as desolate or windy, but it was lower, only 2,820 m vs. the 3,530 Lamjura Pass that we'd crossed several days ago. After the pass, we stopped for lunch at the highly-rated, excellent Beehive Lodge & Restaurant. We were in half a mind to stay here, especially if it started raining, but the weather was holding. Surke is a dump, where a lot of trekkers start after being brought by jeep. We were, at first, the only guests, but then three Chinese guys came, and two of them occupied the room next to us. These guys were yelling to each other in the same room. I retired to our room feeling thoroughly wretched. I realize, in retrospect, that I was feeling so bad and dejected, that I didn't take any photos or video of Surke. It's best forgotten. 9 miles, 2,300' gain, 2,150' loss --- Tuesday, 28th April, 2026, Surke to Chaurikharka. Last night was the worst for me, and perhaps also for everyone else staying at Summit Lodge because I was coughing most of the night.  I had perhaps two 2-hour breaks during which I actually slept. Last night, I told Ken that I wanted to skip breakfast and leave at 6:30. I had a horrendous night. Whatever I've contracted is almost as bad as what Patsy and I came down with in Portugal. I've developed a hacking cough. I managed to get some intermittent sleep, but was awake at 5 am. Walking downstairs, I cracked my forehead going down the stairs. "Fuck!", I exclaimed. "Not you too!", one of the German women said. Ken had just minutes earlier cracked his head and actually fallen down some of the steps. He was afraid he'd broken one or more teeth. One of the German guys had also cracked his head. What a place! I'd paid last night, so we departed peremptorily. There were inmumerable mule trains going our same way, to supply Namche Bazaar. The path was a lot worse than the Grand Canyon's Bright Angel Trail. It was a combination of mud, mule shit, and slippery limestone rocks. Consequently, the 3 miles took 2' 40", much longer than I'd anticipated. In places, the path dropped off steeply, on the left, to the Paiya Khola and Dudh Koshi river canyons. Ken has an unhealthy obsession with keeping his shoes clean, so he was walking next to the thousand-foot drop off where the mules didn't walk. At one point, he slipped on one of the limestone rocks, lost his balance and almost went off the edge. Not sufficiently chastened, he nevertheless stuck to the cliffside edge of the path and was almost pushed off by a passing mule. Miraculously, the mule handler caught his arm and saved him. You always want to stand on the uphill side of passing mules and horses. Overhead, there was a constant procession of airplanes and helicopters flying in and out of Lukla. We passed several nice-looking guest houses, but I wanted to stop at Stupa Home Stay. Outside Stupa Home Stay is the large, ornate Stupa around which you are supposed, and directed, to walk clockwise. Patsy and I walked around it clockwise, doubling back a little to the garden gate to Stupa Home Stay. At Stupa Home Stay, we were very warmly greeted by the host, Karsang, and his wife. I would have liked to spend the rest of the day and the night here, but there was only one available room. Karsang suggested we check across the path because he thought there were at least two available rooms in Chaurikharka Guest House. We did that, reserved two rooms, then returned to Stupa Home Stay to eat breakfast around 9:30. Karsang invited us to eat in their kitchen as it was warmer and more convivial than the dining room. After breakfast, he invited us to see his ancestral home where a Buddhist Puja was taking place. The Stupa had been recently repaired and four Buddhist monks were chanting prayers to bless the Stupa on this auspicious "double fire" day in the Nepalese calendar. Karsang explained many of the features of the house and gave me a glass of Raksi. It was good, not as strong as I'd expected, and had a hint of anise. We took our backpacks across the road and selected rooms. Karsang requested that we eat dinner at Chaurikharka Guest House, as it's considered bad form to sleep in one lodge (for only 500 npr per room) and eat somewhere else. We didn't know what to make of the forecast. Rain was predicted after 10 am today  but it stayed dry until 4 pm. In the mid-afternoon, we walked up the trail to "Himalayan Sherpa Coffee". This is the world's highest coffee roaster at 2,675 m  (8,776'), roasting in-house with a 2 kg capacity Vulcan (Taiwanese) coffee roaster and have a 2-group Faema espresso machine. Meanwhile, outside, it began raining torrentially. 4 miles, 1,500' gain, 250' loss