Jacquard Loom Mail Assembly

There were several ways that Jacquard mails were assembled historically, many of which were better suited to industrial settings where many looms were harnessed routinely. With only one loom to harness I’ve developed this system for putting together the 800 required mails for my Jacquard damask loom. Sleeper (upper) and hanger (lower) twines are warped to length on a board with nails. A sleeper is passed through one eye of the mail, tied in a weavers knot, and transferred onto a steel rod. A hanger is passed through the opposite hole in the mail, the ends passed through the hole of the lingo, and the twine tied off in a sailors knot. Following assembly the mails will be twisted and varnished before being tied to the neck (body) cords of the harness proper.