[散策] 冬日鎌倉徒步：錢洗弁財天、源氏山古道、高德院大佛｜Kamakura Winter Walk: Zeniarai Benzaiten & Great Buddha｜2023.02.12

2023年2月12日， 趁著冬日晴朗的天氣來到鎌倉散步。這次沒有從最熱鬧的東口開始，而是先從鎌倉站西口出發，吃完京都勝牛後慢慢走進住宅區。原本想參觀「鎌倉歷史文化交流館」，結果走到門口才發現當天休館，只好繼續往山裡走。穿過隧道後，又在住宅區看到一間排著長長人龍的小店，後來才知道是以巨大白玉聞名的「茶房 雲母（きらら）」。 繼續一路上坡，終於抵達藏在山谷中的「錢洗弁財天宇賀福神社」。這裡最有名的就是用洞窟中的「錢洗水」洗錢祈福。相傳源賴朝在1185年夢見宇賀福神指引他找到這處泉水，後來北條時賴又以泉水洗錢祈求家族繁榮，逐漸形成今天熟悉的洗錢信仰。既然都辛苦爬上來了，當然也要把自己的錢洗一下，再吃個點心補充體力。 離開錢洗弁財天後繼續往源氏山公園前進，途中經過「葛原岡神社」。這裡祭祀的是日野俊基，他曾參與後醍醐天皇推翻鎌倉幕府的計畫，最後於1332年在葛原岡被處刑；有趣的是，隔年鎌倉幕府也隨之滅亡。 從葛原岡開始接上「葛原岡・大佛健行步道」，原本只是來鎌倉散步，走到這裡突然變成爬山。一路沿著丘陵翻越到長谷，也更能感受到鎌倉三面環山、一面臨海的特殊地形。對今天的遊客來說是健行路線，但放回幕府時代，這些山丘也是鎌倉天然的地形屏障。 下山後來到長谷的「高德院」，參觀鎌倉最具代表性的阿彌陀如來大佛。看完大佛，再用一支CREMIA冰淇淋補充剛才翻山消耗掉的熱量，接著從長谷站搭江之電返回鎌倉站。 下午改從東口出發，走過小町通、若宮大路與鶴岡八幡宮。離開八幡宮後，又遇到已有四百多年歷史的石材老店「石長」，主要製作墓石與相關石工；第四代庄兵衛還曾在1697年參與鶴岡八幡宮石製太鼓橋的施工，沒想到剛離開神社又遇到一段與八幡宮相連的地方歷史。 鎌倉散步到這裡還沒有結束。搭JR前往大船，先看到山坡上醒目的白色「大船觀音」，接著換乘湘南單軌。和一般跨坐在軌道上的單軌不同，湘南單軌是整列車吊在軌道下方行駛的「懸垂式單軌」，一路穿過住宅區、山坡與隧道前往湘南江之島。 抵達湘南江之島後，再轉乘江之電前往藤澤，最後換小田急返回南大澤。原本是一趟冬日鎌倉散步，最後不只走了住宅區、神社、源氏山與大佛健行步道，還把JR、江之電、湘南單軌與小田急全部搭了一輪。 On February 12, 2023, I visited Kamakura for a winter day walk. Instead of starting from the busy East Exit, I began on the quieter western side of Kamakura Station. After lunch at Gyukatsu Kyoto Katsugyu, I walked through residential streets toward the hills. The Kamakura Museum of History and Culture was closed, so I continued on and unexpectedly passed Sabo Kirara, a popular sweets shop known for its oversized shiratama. The first major stop was Zeniarai Benzaiten Ugafuku Shrine, hidden in a valley and famous for its sacred spring where visitors wash money for good fortune. From there, I continued through Genjiyama Park and Kuzuharaoka Shrine, dedicated to Hino Toshimoto, who joined Emperor Go-Daigo's attempt to overthrow the Kamakura shogunate and was executed here in 1332. The route then became a real hike along the Kuzuharaoka–Daibutsu Trail, crossing the wooded hills toward Hase. The landscape also shows why Kamakura, surrounded by hills on three sides and the sea on the fourth, provided a naturally defensible setting for the samurai government. After descending to Hase, I visited Kotoku-in and the Great Buddha of Kamakura, followed by a CREMIA ice cream and an Enoden ride back to Kamakura Station. The afternoon continued through Komachi-dori, Wakamiya-oji and Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. On the way back, I also passed Ishicho, a stoneworking company founded in Kamakura more than four centuries ago and historically connected with Tsurugaoka Hachimangu. The day ended with JR to Ofuna, a view of the huge white Ofuna Kannon, and a ride on the Shonan Monorail. Unlike a conventional monorail, the train hangs beneath the track, running through hills, tunnels and residential neighborhoods to Shonan-Enoshima. From there I transferred to the Enoden for Fujisawa and finally took the Odakyu Line back toward Minami-Osawa. Chapters｜時間軸 00:00 冬日鎌倉一日散策 / Winter Day Trip to Kamakura 00:25 抵達鎌倉站 / Kamakura Station 00:37 西口・京都勝牛 / Gyukatsu Kyoto Katsugyu 01:13 西口住宅街散步 / Western Kamakura 02:04 鎌倉歷史文化交流館休館 / Museum Closed 02:18 茶房雲母 / Sabo Kirara 03:12 錢洗弁財天 / Zeniarai Benzaiten 04:39 源氏山公園 / Genjiyama Park 04:57 葛原岡神社 / Kuzuharaoka Shrine 05:31 葛原岡・大佛健行步道 / Daibutsu Hiking Trail 07:56 下山前往長谷 / Descending to Hase 08:11 高德院・鎌倉大佛 / Great Buddha of Kamakura 09:41 CREMIA冰淇淋 / CREMIA 10:19 江之電長谷站 / Hase Station 10:45 鎌倉站東口 / Kamakura East Exit 11:01 小町通 / Komachi-dori 11:32 若宮大路 / Wakamiya-oji 11:55 鶴岡八幡宮 / Tsurugaoka Hachimangu 13:18 四百年石材老店「石長」 / Ishicho Stoneworks 13:23 搭JR前往大船 / JR to Ofuna 14:10 大船觀音・湘南單軌 / Ofuna Kannon & Shonan Monorail 15:02 湘南江之島站 / Shonan-Enoshima 15:16 轉乘江之電 / Enoden to Fujisawa 15:17 藤澤・返回南大澤 / Fujisawa to Minami-Osawa #鎌倉 #Kamakura #錢洗弁財天 #源氏山 #鎌倉大佛 #鶴岡八幡宮 #江之電 #湘南單軌 #日本散策 #JapanTravel