Advance Mountaineering Course | HMI Darjeeling |2026.

The Advance Mountaineering Course (AMC) conducted by the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI), Darjeeling, is a highly rigorous program designed to train mountaineers into lead climbers and potential expedition leaders. A structured overview of the course curriculum, layout, and admission criteria details are outlined below. 📋 Course Overview • Duration: 28 days (comprising approximately 7 days of campus/rock training and 21 days in the high-altitude mountains). • Location: Field training takes place at Chowrikhang Base Camp (14,600 feet) and the Rathong Glacier area in West Sikkim. • Objective: To transition trainees from assisted climbers to self-reliant lead climbers capable of organizing high-altitude expeditions and executing peak climbs. 🗺️ Day-by-Day Training Schedule Phase Days Training & Location Specifics Phase 1: Campus & Rock Craft Days 1 – 6 Based at the HMI Campus (6810 ft) and Tenzing Rock. • Rigorous physical conditioning, yoga, and equipment distribution. • Advanced rock craft, artificial climbing, anchoring, and advanced rescue techniques. • Theoretical lectures on navigation, GPS usage, avalanche safety, and high-altitude medicine. Phase 2: High Altitude Trek Days 7 – 11 The acclimatization march to the mountains. • Trainees trek with heavy rucksacks via Yuksum (1850m), Tshoka (10,000 ft), and Dzongri (13,220 ft) to successfully reach the HMI Base Camp at Chowrikhang (14,600 ft). Phase 3: Ice & Snow Craft Days 12 – 20 Operating at the Rathong Glacier and Advance Base Camp (ABC - 15,500 ft). • Intensive technical ice climbing, vertical rescue systems, crevasse rescue, and complex snow navigation. • Survival training, high-altitude cooking, and mountain camp management. Phase 4: Peak Expedition Days 21 – 24 The culmination of the technical training. • Trainees plan, manage, and attempt a summit height-gain expedition up to an altitude of 18,000 ft, typically targeting Mt. B.C. Roy. Phase 5: Evaluation & Return Days 25 – 28 Descent back through the trek route to Darjeeling. • Trainees undergo formal written tests, physical assessments, viva-voce interviews, and equipment return. • Concludes with the official graduation ceremony at the HMI campus.