Nanking Cherry Training as Single-Trunk Bonsai Whip 🌸 [ASMR]

Turning a wild shrub into a clean tree-form? Watch me prune this Nanking Cherry down to a single-trunk whip in ASMR. ✂️🪴 I'm training a young Nanking Cherry (Prunus tomentosa) to grow as a single-trunk informal-upright “whip.” It’s a yearly pruning ritual: strip back bushy, basally-dominant branching so the tree channels energy upward. Over the first few years, I repeat this process each fall or late winter. Once the trunk thickens enough, I’ll let it rest for a season, then begin wiring it into shape. You’ll hear soft cuts, leaf rustle and background bird songs while I explain how this method shapes the trunk-line before branching out later. Featured in this video: Nanking Cherry, Prunus Tomentosum/Tomentosa Also called: Korean Cherry, Manchu Cherry, Chinese Bush/Dwarf Cherry, Shanghai Cherry Pruning, training & creating a single-trunk “whip” for a future, informal-upright bonsai/pre-bonsai (Dec. 30 2019) Yearly pruning/prune for single-trunk and tree-form “whip” training Black Phoebe songbird Sayornis nigricans ASMR bonsai and Japanese gardening Description: This is a very similar technique that's used in Japan to make Satsuki Azaleas into an informal-upright, single-trunk bonsai from young “whips” and cuttings (because Azaleas are also "basally-dominant" and essentially very leggy shrubs). The only difference is that (because Azaleas are evergreen/semi-deciduous) foliage and a couple twigs/branches (eg: 3-6 twigs) are left only at the very top apex of the Azalea (with no foliage/branches left lower down nor at the base), to help re-direct its’ basal-energy to the top instead. The Nanking Cherry (and Azalea and other similar leggy shrubs/trees) is essentially a bush/shrub that's "basally-dominant” (ie: new shoots and strength favor coming from the base); so, if left to just grow, it would be multi-trunk with countless leggy trunks and sprouts, and a lot of trunk-bulging that will be difficult to correct in the future. To make it into a single-trunk, tree-form and/or informal-upright in the future... prune it back into a single trunk-line once every year (in the Fall, September, or after leaf drop, or late winter) for the first 3 years. Then leave it alone and let it grow healthy again for a year/growing-season after pruning. In the 4th year, you can wire the single-trunk for some movement if desired (in March or April). After that, the next several years will be thickening the trunk in the field/ground or a big pot (which can take 3, 5, 10, 15, 20 years, etc… really depending on your desired thickness and its' growth rate). During (every year or so, and not too much; since we are trying to fatten the trunk, which happens fastest when as much foliage is left on as possible) and After that trunk-development time/stage, remove any unnecessary branches to your desired design and framework, and also any overly thick side-branches. Once the trunk reaches your desired thickness, or 2/3 of your desired thickness, (several years later), then you can begin building permanent side-branches and ramification. This technique is much much different than the usual ‘trunk-chops” done to deciduous trees to gain taper over time. Mostly because deciduous trees are “apically dominant” (most shoots and strength favor the top) and tends to have a more “even” almost-taper-less trunk or minimal taper (unless any side-branches exist and help add to its’ taper). Whereas, “basally-dominant” trees and shrubs (Nanking, Azalea, etc.), gains taper easier and naturally because most energy and shoots are always favoring and growing near the base (which in turn, fattens the base and lower trunk naturally and gives it taper). #CherryBonsai #NankingCherry #ASMRGardening Support for the channel is available via Amazon & eBay shopping (I earn a small commission from affiliate program), Super Thanks & PayPal donations: Amazon Homepage (affiliate link): https://amzn.to/4f5TdQH eBay Homepage (affiliate link): https://bit.ly/3RECp8a Paypal (donation page link): http://bit.ly/2jZPA6m​​​​​​​​​​