Spring/Summer 2027 Menswear Collection

SS27 Menswear A view within a room. In Florence, a reflection on contemporary masculinities, a consideration of gentle men. Under the proscenium arch of the Teatro della Pergola, a collection of character studies, of contrasting acts comprises the Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2027 men’s collection, the house’s first men’s show. There is a notion of performance. A root in sartorial classicism - tailoring, shirting, knits, Oxford shoes - is both an echo of and challenging notions of the male wardrobe. Underpinnings as outerlayers convey a subversive vulnerability while within, shirts and linings in linens are hand-embroidered, like future heirlooms with an imagined past before them. Archival prints are drawn from the young heritage of Simone Rocha. Codified nods to her world are reanimated, recontextualised and reconsidered for the male. A grand tour. Materials and clothes are shifted and displaced, as if moving between diverse locales, different worlds. Cutwork linen, Venetian wool, Broderie Anglaise, Fairisle knits, smocked gingham and silk striped jerseys. Clothes redolent of custom and purpose - echoes of industry, notions of duty. Artists, workers, dancers, uniforms of lives. Honest, authentic, real. Apron and pinafore details carve out and wrap backs, protecting and exposing. A strength in delicacy, and a tender power. There is knowing innocence to proportions that nod to different ages of man - childhood, adolescence, adulthood. The space in which we convene also leaves its trace on this collection, a reaction to place and time. Floral patterns are drawn from the linings of costume trunks, a Florentine scene becomes a souvenir print, airs of the theatre universe animate silhouettes with a languid swagger, within this ancient city mythologised through art and literature. Here, realities collide with fantasies, clothes making the man.