How to alter a women's kimono into a men's kimono. Easy by Web apps, patterns, and a sewing machine

Alteration guide *Content is being added sequentially. https://wkimono.tokyo/en/onaoshi Proceed at your own pace with photos and text https://wkimono.tokyo/global/index.ph... Email support on inquiry or trouble info@wkimono.tokyo Steps =================================== 0:02 1. I take the measurements and enter them on the web. 0:09 2. I check how the kimono I have is tailored. · Lining: this time it is awase (lined) 0:11 · Sleeve shape: this time it is furi 0:13 On a women's kimono, the back of the sleeve is open (furi). 0:15 On a men's kimono, the back of the sleeve is closed (ningyo). 0:17 · Collar shape: this time it is a wide collar (women's) 0:19 A men's kimono has a bar collar. 0:21 · Age: whether there is age, inner age, kurikoshi age, and their lengths 0:23 Age is extra fabric sewn in for alterations, around the waist and similar places. 0:25 It is fabric folded and kept like this on the inside of the body. 0:27 This time there is no age. I cannot lengthen the mitake (height of kimono). 0:29 · Length of the seam allowance: sleeve sodetsuke, body sodetsuke, and so on 0:31 (Unlined) I look at the wrong side of the sodetsuke, and check whether a seam allowance wider than 1.5 cm is included. 0:33 (Lined) I feel the sodetsuke, and check whether a seam allowance over 1 cm is included. 0:35 This time there is not 1 cm or more of seam allowance, so I use patch fabric to lengthen the yuki (sleeve length). 0:37 I enter the age on the web. 0:39 3. I choose the measurements I want on the web. 0:41 Then the difference between those measurements and the current ones is calculated automatically, 0:43 and where to alter is shown. 0:45 This time I alter the following. · Sleeve ningyo/furi · Collar · Miyatsuguchi (side hole) · Sodetsuke · Kurikoshi (finished) · Sodehaba (sleeve width) · Katahaba (shoulder width) 0:48 4. I unpick the kimono 0:56 This time I unpick the sodetsuke, furi, collar, right okumi, and miyatsuguchi. 0:58 The unpicked area 1:00 5. I cut the patch fabric out of the existing kimono. 1:02 This time, from the collar on the inside of the cover collar, and 1:04 from the right okumi. 1:06 First, I cut out the collar on the inside of the cover collar. 1:11 It split into three. This is called a three-piece collar. 1:13 I leave both ends, and use the middle as material. 1:17 I cut further from the middle of this collar. 1:21 This cut-out piece will later be the patch fabric for the body's sodetsuke. 1:25 Next, I cut from the right okumi. 1:34 This will be the patch fabric for the sleeve's sodetsuke. 1:38 6. For the parts I cut off, I sew different fabric on instead. 1:40 On the three-piece collar, I place different fabric in the middle. 1:42 I prepare different fabric of the same size, 1:44 and sew it together with the sewing machine. 1:49 On the right okumi, I sew different fabric on at the bottom. 1:51 I prepare different fabric of the same size, 1:53 and sew it together with the sewing machine. 1:57 7. I sew the patch fabric onto the places where the measurements are short. 1:59 I layer the patch fabric on the sleeve's sodetsuke, 2:09 and sew it on with the sewing machine. 2:13 I layer the patch fabric on the body's sodetsuke, 2:21 and sew it on with the sewing machine. 2:26 I layer the patch fabric on the body's collar-shoulder area, 2:33 and sew it on with the sewing machine. 2:39 8. I resew all the unpicked parts. 2:41 I layer the right okumi on the body, 2:44 and sew them together with the sewing machine. 2:55 I layer the sleeve on the body, 3:04 and sew them together with the sewing machine. 3:11 I layer the collar on the body, 3:14 and sew them together with the sewing machine. 3:20 Finished 3:22 The web app “Alteration Guide” charges 980 yen only for downloading the pattern PDF, but 3:26 all other features are free. 3:29 I enter the current measurements, and choose the desired gender and size, 3:33 and the difference is calculated automatically. 3:38 With this, the places that should be altered are suggested automatically, 3:42 where patch fabric is needed, 3:44 where to cut it from, 3:46 how much different fabric is needed to replace what was cut out, 3:48 are suggested individually. 3:50 Matching pattern types and measurements are also suggested. 3:52 From here, the actual steps are shown according to your situation. 3:56 Places to unpick also differ from person to person, so the program judges them individually. 4:01 From here is how to make the patch fabric. 4:03 Alteration work differs by the combination of the source and the target, 4:05 so the work is different every time. 4:08 This program generates those different work steps each time. 4:11 With this, tacit knowledge that until now was passed on by word of mouth 4:14 becomes knowledge everyone can use, 4:16 and anyone can take a secondhand or given kimono,