We Waited All Summer for This Swell: Then It Got Ugly
Pippo Lux
0:00 / 0:00
We Waited All Summer for This Swell: Then It Got Ugly
3 569 просмотров · 3 дня назад
Pippo Lux
1,66 тыс. подписчиков
3 569 просмотров · 3 дня назад
After a whole summer without energy, the first proper swell of the season showed up at the end of August, 12 to 13 second period at 4 to 6 feet on the west coast. Two hours in the water, a current that kept pulling us off the peak, peaks that kept shifting and sets that just washed through. We ended the day with two waves and a decent beating. Along the way I show you how I read the waves, when I let one go and why the waiting still pays off.
Spoken in German, English subtitles are on.
Pippo's Early Bird Sessions, episode 68.
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0:00 In this episode
0:24 The first swell of the season
0:45 Paddling out
1:09 Nervous in the line-up
2:39 Why we cannot get into a wave
3:15 Peaks that keep shifting
4:06 Reading waves instead of paddling
5:09 45 minutes, not a single wave
5:40 The first wave and a hold-down
6:14 When something clicks
6:46 The offshore picks up
7:24 Two hours, shoulders done
8:12 The last wave
8:29 On the way back
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#pippolux #surfvlog #surfing #swell #surfportugal