We Waited 8 Days to Sail Here – Træna to Lovund, Norway | Ep. 98

After waiting eight days in Træna for the weather, we finally get the window we need to sail across to Lovund on Norway’s Helgeland coast — an island famous for its puffins, dramatic mountains and thriving community. The waters between Træna and Lovund have a reputation for rough seas, and with recent southwesterly winds approaching 30 knots and forecasts showing 2.5–3 metre significant waves, we were happy to stay safely in harbour. When the wind finally drops, we set off — although an old swell is still rolling through. Arriving at Lovund brings a different challenge. The approach through the skerries is intricate, with shallow water, narrow passages and fast-moving ferry traffic. Rather than follow the ferry route through an area of uncertain depth, we take the longer way around before carefully manoeuvring Polaris into the harbour. Once safely alongside, Catherine heads for the mountains. Her solo climb becomes more than simply reaching a summit — it is about fear, personal limits, freedom and why challenging herself in wild places means so much to her. We also discover another side of Lovund: a surprisingly young and thriving island community, an unusual speciality coffee roastery surrounded by old maritime machinery, and finally the birds we came here hoping to see — Lovund’s puffins. Their nesting area is strictly protected, so this time the experience is better than the photographs. A few days later, we leave Lovund for a 25-nautical-mile passage south. After initially reefing the mainsail in anticipation of stronger winds, the forecast changes in our favour. The reef comes out and we settle into one of those wonderfully uncomplicated days of downwind sailing through the islands of northern Norway. Sometimes cruising is about challenging passages and careful pilotage. Sometimes it is about knowing when to wait. And occasionally, everything aligns and you simply get to sail. In this episode: 00:00 Leaving Træna after eight days 00:25 Waiting for a safe weather window 01:54 Approaching the skerries around Lovund 02:27 Choosing the safer route 02:54 Why we came to Lovund 03:20 Intricate pilotage into the harbour 04:12 Manoeuvring Polaris in shallow water 05:11 Kathrin climbs Lovundfjellet 07:25 Why Kathirn climbs alone 09:31 An unexpected coffee discovery 10:25 Life on Lovund 11:00 Searching for Lovund’s puffins 11:44 A navigational disagreement… 12:10 Back under sail 14:15 Leaving Lovund 16:26 The forecast changes 17:35 A perfect downwind sail 18:53 Coming next If you enjoy thoughtful cruising, practical seamanship and exploring the more remote parts of the Norwegian coast by sailing boat, consider subscribing and joining us for the next passage. Next time, friends join us aboard Polaris as we continue exploring the islands farther north. 📘 Norwegian Cruising Guide We also co-write and publish the Norwegian Cruising Guide — a harbour and anchorage guide for sailors exploring the Norwegian coast. Find practical information about harbours, anchorages, approaches, facilities, and local cruising details for Norway: https://www.norwegiancruisingguide.com We are Kathrin & Daniel, a sailing couple living aboard Polaris Helvetica. After leaving our land-based life behind, we refitted Polaris into a liveaboard cruiser and set sail north to explore Norway, the Arctic Circle, Svalbard, and beyond. ⛵ Watch next: Norway sailing playlist: https://studio.youtube.com/video/ir-W... Boat tour of Polaris Helvetica:    • Our Upgraded Bavaria Cruiser 46 (2017) | B...   Previous episode:    • We Couldn’t Leave This Arctic Island – Sai...   🌐 More from Sailing Polaris: Website: https://www.sailingpolaris.uk Instagram:   / sailingpolaris   Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/share/18xwSX... Contact: dan@sailingpolaris.uk #SailingNorway #CruisingSailboat #AdventureSailing #SailingLife #NorwegianCruisingGuide