How Did a Soldier's Scarf Become the Necktie?
The Long Answer
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How Did a Soldier's Scarf Become the Necktie?
35 просмотров · 8 дн. назад
The Long Answer
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35 просмотров · 8 дн. назад
In 2021 a member of parliament was thrown out for refusing to wear one. So why does a strip of silk at the throat still mean serious business?
The necktie began with the knotted neckerchiefs of Croatian mercenaries in 17th-century Paris, and the French word for Croats gave us "cravat". How did that scarf turn into the most familiar piece of formal clothing, and why is it now coming undone? We follow four clues: a king's fashion, a clever cut, a code of stripes and a loosening knot. Along the way we cover:
Croatian mercenaries in the Thirty Years' War, Hrvati, Croates and the cravat;
Louis XIV's lace cravat, jabots, and International Necktie Day on 18 October;
soldiers' leather stocks, the bag wig and solitaire, the macaronis of "Yankee Doodle";
Neckclothitania (1818), the first book to call neckwear a "tie";
the Industrial Revolution, the long tie and the Four-in-Hand Club;
Benjamin Harrison and Theodore Roosevelt in long ties;
Jesse Langsdorf's 1922 bias cut, the four main knots, the Duke of Windsor, and Fink and Mao's 85 knots;
hand-painted ties, the Bold Look, skinny ties, the kipper tie and the 1990s sales peak;
club, regimental and school ties, "heart to sword", and the American mirror image;
women and ties, from the suffrage movement and Coco Chanel to Annie Hall;
health and safety, clip-ons, hospital bans, religious objections, casual Friday and the tie's decline.
Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:23 The question
0:47 The Croatian Scarf
1:43 Stocks and Dandies
2:33 The Long Tie
3:23 The Cut and the Knot
4:12 Wide, Thin, Wild
5:12 The Code of Stripes
6:16 Loosening the Knot
7:30 The answer
The Long Answer: one question, eight minutes, the whole story. History, science, technology and strange events, explained clearly for curious people.
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Sources
Narration based on the English Wikipedia article "Necktie" (CC BY-SA 4.0).
Photo credits (Wikimedia Commons)
Nxr-at (CC BY-SA 4.0) – The Cravat Regiment, Zagreb (3 photos; one also used for the thumbnail)
Jorge Royan (CC BY-SA 3.0) – Rolled and patterned silk ties (4 photos)
Michal Klajban (CC BY-SA 4.0) – Parliament House, Wellington
Parliamentary Service (New Zealand Parliament) (CC BY 4.0) – Te Pāti Māori co-leaders in New Zealand's debating chamber, 2023
Dhantegge (CC BY-SA 4.0) – Rāwiri Waititi
Office of the Clerk of the House of Representatives (NZ) (CC BY 4.0) – New Zealand House of Representatives chamber
Friedrich Haag (CC BY-SA 4.0) – A tie knot
Jonathan Mueller (CC BY 2.0) – Adjusting a tie
Michael Cooper (CC BY 2.0) – A striped tie
Michael Kopatz (CC BY-SA 4.0) – A rack of neckties
Myrabella (CC BY-SA 3.0) – Hall of Mirrors, Versailles
King of Hearts (CC BY-SA 4.0) – Palace of Versailles
Mmangan333 (CC BY-SA 4.0) – Portrait of a gentleman with a lace jabot, 1685
Eduard Paulig (CC BY 4.0) – Broadway and Wall Street, 1927
Dietmar Rabich (CC BY-SA 4.0) – Manhattan from above
Jim Barton (CC BY-SA 2.0) – Cavendish Laboratory, West Cambridge
C Ford (CC BY-SA 3.0) – Carnaby Street, London
Acediscovery (CC BY 4.0) – Exeter College, Oxford
Carfax2 (CC BY-SA 3.0) – Trooping the Colour
Fortepan / Urbán Tamás (CC BY-SA 3.0) – Schoolgirls with ties, Debrecen, Hungary
Los Angeles Times (CC BY 4.0) – Coco Chanel in Los Angeles, 1931
Amtec Photos (CC BY-SA 2.0) – A job interview
CEphoto, Uwe Aranas (CC BY-SA 3.0) – Factory machinery
JohnGold6000 (CC BY 4.0) – Metropolitan Police officer
Rwendland (CC BY-SA 4.0) – A British hospital ward
Rodhullandemu (CC BY-SA 4.0) – Quaker meeting house, St Helens
Amir Pashaei (CC BY-SA 4.0) – Tehran
Vyacheslav Argenberg (CC BY 4.0) – An IKEA store
Chatham House (CC BY 2.0) – Richard Branson, 2015
CC0: Prince Claus in conversation and Prince Claus, 1986 (Anefo / Rob Croes, Nationaal Archief); the Beehive and Parliament House, Wellington (Daderot); suit and tie (William Stitt); Croatian light cavalryman, museum figure (Silverije); men's fashion fair, Amsterdam (Nationaal Archief); The Exeter College Eight on the Isis (William Turner of Oxford, Yale Center for British Art)