After A Fin In My Leg I’m Stoked To Be Surfing Again

I was hurt in July of 2025 and I have only really surfed 4 or so times since then. I did not return to the water until spring of 26. Life is a gift and I’m humbled by all this and carry more intent with my actions now. Regardless I will still live life and take risks in the water. If possible more carefully. The audio clip was added because I actually bruised my rib pretty bad right after that first wave and it cause a buzzing sound to be on the rest of the clips. Never in 7 years of SUPing have I ever taken a nose to the chest then it happened out of nowhere. I should have bailed instead of deciding to maybe paddle over an approaching wave. I was in a heavier spot and this harbor creates a mean square wave. If you know anything about those they can really channel the energy. Worst rib shot I’ve ever took hurt for the last 2 weeks but once I assessed myself and checked out I still had to get all those waves after. Pain will be there later those conditions were pretty rare! Anyways, the song was something I created last year immediately following my injury in late August of 2025. Of course I used AI to create from the low place I found myself in. I was unsure how f*cked my leg was and if it would ever feel normal again. At the time I was very uncomfortable at the cut site and my entire leg felt half asleep and half circulating. Was not walking at the time. Didn’t know how bad I would limp or if I would ever surf again and if I did would I be able to get over the fear of what could happen? Listening to that track over these recent clips really speaks to my heart that despite the struggle never give up! Count it all good. Best wishes.