Dirty Girdie (5.8+ trad) - Leading a sandbagged Gunks slab route
ethansclimbing
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Dirty Girdie (5.8+ trad) - Leading a sandbagged Gunks slab route
448 просмотров · 2 дн. назад
ethansclimbing
169 подписчиков
448 просмотров · 2 дн. назад
A Gunks 5.8 that definitely deserves its "+" rating!
This route has a few spicy moves down low with marginal protection, but actually is very manageable if you dial in the moves and gear. Get a good spot or practice on TR before leading! At the first rusty piton, I found a small brassy fit VERY nicely when slotted sideways, then flipped vertically before being set. It pairs well with the pin, and calms the nerves before the next face/slab moves.
00:00 On belay!
01:16 First piece (# 0.1 cam)
02:01 Lower crux move, above single #0.1 cam
02:50 Paired brass nut with rusty piton
04:00 2nd crux moves...
06:22 2nd piton, paired with #1 cam
07:15 Chains and threading the rings for lower off