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Dirty Girdie (5.8+ trad) - Leading a sandbagged Gunks slab route

ethansclimbing

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Dirty Girdie (5.8+ trad) - Leading a sandbagged Gunks slab route

448 просмотров · 2 дн. назад
ethansclimbing
169 подписчиков
448 просмотров · 2 дн. назад
A Gunks 5.8 that definitely deserves its "+" rating! This route has a few spicy moves down low with marginal protection, but actually is very manageable if you dial in the moves and gear. Get a good spot or practice on TR before leading! At the first rusty piton, I found a small brassy fit VERY nicely when slotted sideways, then flipped vertically before being set. It pairs well with the pin, and calms the nerves before the next face/slab moves. 00:00 On belay! 01:16 First piece (# 0.1 cam) 02:01 Lower crux move, above single #0.1 cam 02:50 Paired brass nut with rusty piton 04:00 2nd crux moves... 06:22 2nd piton, paired with #1 cam 07:15 Chains and threading the rings for lower off