Volvo Camber Bolt Install - Moog K100009 - reducing negative camber on a Volvo V50 S40 C30

I installed a set of inexpensive ($20/pair) Moog camber-adjustment bolts on my 2005 Volvo V50 to eliminate excessive negative camber (tires leaning in at the top). This fixed my out-of-spec camber without resorting to installing a much more expensive - and hard to adjust - adjustable upper control arms. This job required some grinding and more tools than some DIYers have, but isn't difficult. Please note that I mis-spoke about the proper alignment of the "notches" on the washers (I meant to install them to minimize negative camber, but actually installed them so the range of adjustment for the cam bolt was more negative). Luckily, the cam adjuster provided enough range to put the camber where I wanted it with the inside tabs in the "wrong position". If the installation of the camber bolt as shown hadn't reduced the negative camber enough with them located as shown in the video, I'd just flip the washers 180° and probably get another half degree or so out of the camber adjustment. Moog claims a +/- 1.0° adjustment range using this bolt, and I'd guess it's at least that much, maybe more. All in all, this was a VERY worthwhile mod, for not much money or too much time or trouble. Volvos are notorious for having excessive negative camber, without any way to adjust it (other than replacing worn control arms, which I'd already done). Adjustable upper control arms will also allow adjusting over a much wider range, but are more expensive and (I've been told) are difficult to adjust on the car (so your alignment tech might not be able to adjust them anyway). The good thing about this fix is that the only alignment spec that is changed by doing this job is the camber - the toe-in and caster will remain unchanged. So you can adjust the camber one of several ways. If you have a report from an alignment showing how far the rear camber is out of spec (or how far it is from your desired spec), you can just take a reading with either the wheels on the ground, or with the wheel(s) off, using a bubble level app on your smartphone. Then, just calculate the difference between your current camber spec and your desired spec, and add or subtract that difference from your starting point. If you're doing a "wheels off" approach, the starting or ending number won't be your actual camber, but just a "starting point" and an "ending point". So if you (for example) want to reduce the negative camber by 1.0°, you'd just set an "ending point" that's got 1.0° more tilt at the hub face than you started with (since the movement of the knuckle that causes a 1° correction with the suspension fully "drooped" should be pretty much the same as with the wheels on the ground, where it would be a LOT tougher to adjust). I hope this video helps you take the leap to improve the alignment of your Volvo - mine was out enough that the rear tires were showing signs of wearing the inside edges of the tires faster than the rest of the tire. So this $20 investment should save me loads of cost over the next 50,000 miles! Even better, my beautiful V50 no longer looks like I'm trying to set it up in "boy racer mode"! ;-) Please subscribe to my channel if these videos are helping you keep your car running... thanks!