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From Downtown V7 - Hooes Road VA

Crème Diplomate

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From Downtown V7 - Hooes Road VA

1 401 просмотр · 11 дней назад
Crème Diplomate
69 подписчиков
1 401 просмотр · 11 дней назад
I'd first noticed this line years ago when first working Paul Wallace problem due to some chalk on the undercling. At first I thought it was a sick joke as pulling off alone felt impossible. Last year when working on Hooes Rd Project #1 I would give this more serious attempts each session and slowly dialed in the micro-beta, but I was still lacking in something. This year my 3 finger drag reached a new level, and it seems to be what I was missing. First session back this year and I was immediately able to drive way harder into the left foot due to more solid fingers (thanks Kilter). Got agonizingly close a few times and then surprised myself when it just went easy on the send. On grade, I was absolutely certain this was minimum V8, but it's really hard to grade these one movers. When it feels so easy on the send you have to accept that the struggles of the past were irrelevant and go with how it felt in the moment. This is an absolute disgusting line so please do not climb this unless you have nothing left to do here! :)