How to Valve clearance adjustment / Honda CRV HRV Civic R20A1.

In this episode , I share with you on how to do Regular tune up on this Honda CRV . Let us proceed with Valve clearance adjustments on this High Milage Honda CRV with Engine R20A1 2000cc SOHC i-VTEC. Note : Honda Civic with R18A1 also applicable for this maintenance service. Please allow 2 – 4 hours of your time for this as it is very time consuming to get precise measurements. It is recommended to do this service every 40.000kms . Tools & part required : 10mm socket 19mm socket Long extension Ratchet 10mm spanner Pliers Filler Gauge / Valve guide tool Honda Bond / Permatex gasket Valve cover gasket (Honda 12341- RNA – A01) Torque wrench Once completed you will feel the engine is more smooth , responsive & have better fuel economy . Please do it at your own risk, I will not hold any responsibilities of any damage that can occurs during this service. Thank you again guys for your time tuning in to my channel, If you are new to this channel please consider subscribing to give your support. Share this video if you find it useful and give a thumbs up for me video. See you again soon on the next video. Please follow my IG at felixdan_ and Subscribe to this channel to give your full support. The full weite up detail of How to Valve clearance check : Adjusting the valves on the Honda 2.0 i-VTEC (R20A1) engine—found in the 8th and 9th generation CRV & Civics—is an excellent way to eliminate top-end ticking and maintain fuel efficiency. Because it's a solid lifter setup, Honda recommends doing this every 60,000 to 100,000 miles, or whenever it gets noisy. *CRITICAL RULE:* The engine *must be stone cold* (cylinder head temperature less than 100°F / 38°C). Letting it sit overnight is best. If you adjust them hot, the gaps will contract as the engine cools, leaving your valves dangerously tight. 🛠️ The Specs & Tools Before you pick up a wrench, make sure you have a set of angled feeler gauges. *Intake Valves:* 0.18 mm – 0.22 mm (0.007" – 0.009") *Exhaust Valves:* 0.23 mm – 0.27 mm (0.009" – 0.011") *Locknut Torque:* 10 lbf·ft (14 N·m) 🛠️ Step-by-Step Adjustment Procedure 1. Access the Valvetrain Prep work Remove the plastic engine cover, air intake ducting, ignition coils, and the valve cover. You will also need to remove the front right wheel and a plastic splash shield panel to access the crankshaft pulley bolt. 2. Set Cylinder #1 to Top Dead Center (TDC) Locating alignment marks Rotate the crankshaft pulley clockwise using a 19mm socket on the crank bolt. Look at the camshaft sprocket. Rotate it until the word "UP" faces straight up, and the two etched alignment lines on the sides of the gear line up perfectly flush with the top edge of the cylinder head cylinder block surface. 3. Measure and Adjust Cylinder #1 Intake first, then exhaust Slide your feeler gauge between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm adjustment screw. If it's too loose or tight, loosen the locknut with a 10mm wrench. Use a flathead screwdriver to turn the adjustment screw until there is a slight, smooth drag on the feeler gauge (like pulling a piece of paper from under a fridge magnet). Hold the screwdriver steady and torque down the locknut. Recheck the clearance after tightening! 4. Rotate to Cylinder #3 Firing order sequence Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 180 degrees (the camshaft sprocket will turn 90 degrees). The number "3" or its corresponding mark on the cam gear should now point straight up. Adjust the intake and exhaust valves for Cylinder #3. 5. Rotate to Cylinder #4 Firing order sequence Rotate the crankshaft clockwise another 180 degrees until the number "4" mark on the camshaft sprocket points straight up. Adjust the valves for Cylinder #4. 6. Rotate to Cylinder #2 Final cylinder Rotate the crankshaft clockwise another 180 degrees until the number "2" mark on the camshaft sprocket points straight up. Adjust the valves for Cylinder #2. 💡 Important R20A1 Tips for Success *The Go/No-Go Method:* To ensure precision, use a "Go/No-Go" approach. For example, on the intake valves, a 0.20 mm gauge should slide in with slight drag, but a 0.23 mm gauge should absolutely not fit. *Loose is Safer than Tight:* If you are caught between a slightly loose adjustment and a slightly tight adjustment, err on the side of slightly loose. A loose valve is noisy ("a happy valve is a chatty valve"), but a tight valve is silent and can burn out because it fails to fully seat and transfer heat out of the valve face.