Is perfumery dead? My Ambroxan Nightmare, Oakmoss, Lilial, IFRA & Timeless Classics
Luke Parfums
0:00 / 0:00
Is perfumery dead? My Ambroxan Nightmare, Oakmoss, Lilial, IFRA & Timeless Classics
7 728 просмотров · 2 недели назад
Luke Parfums
7,26 тыс. подписчиков
7 728 просмотров · 2 недели назад
Hello. Are classic perfumes really dead? Are we living in an ambroxan nightmare? Has IFRA ruined perfumery? Were oakmoss and lilial really banned, and do vintage perfumes actually smell better than modern reformulations? In this video, I take a deep dive into the biggest changes in modern perfumery, from ambroxan and the rise of molecular fragrances to the restrictions on oakmoss, the 2022 lilial ban. I mention legendary perfumes like Chanel No.5, Opium, Poême, Ysatis, Organza, Coco, Youth-Dew and many more. I separate myth from fact, look at the real IFRA regulations, compare vintage and modern formulas side by side, asking whether today's perfumes have really lost their originality. If you’re interested in vintage perfumes, modern perfumes, fragrance history, reformulations, IFRA regulations, oakmoss, chypres, orientals, or simply want to understand why so many iconic scents smell different today whilst everything else smells the same, this video is for you. Note that I’ve done my best to do research and find accurate information however the video is essentially my commentary (opinion) on trends, brands, culture, marketing, artistic direction.
If you enjoy my content, please consider subscribing. I’d be much obliged.
/ @lukeparfums
0:00 Introduction
1:07 Amber vs ambroxan
3:40 Myth: synthetic vs natural
4:52 My ambroxan nightmare begins
8:00 I took one for the team... Initio Oud for greatness
10:11 The "untouchable": Chanel
11:46 The elephant in the room: BR540
13:02 The fiasco at Dior, Kurkdjian
18:06 Is modern mainstream perfumery dead? + Chanel
21:44 Is there still originality?
22:19 Older designer, affordable designer
23:34 The elusive Oakmoss
26:04 IFRA's restrictions - straight to the source
26:53 Oakmoss is magical
29:41 Myth: oakmoss is not used in modern formulations
32:20 The day Lilial disappeared
33:04 March 2022 - reformulation imminent
33:46 What does Lilial smell like?
36:25 The show must go on
37:26: The die-hard vintage snob perspective
39:57 The crux, the bottom line
40:57 Thank you for watching
My other videos you may find of interest:
• Green, Mossy, Earthy Perfumes | Classic Sc...
• Chanel N°5 PARFUM | Perfume Review & Histo...
• Classic and Modern Chypre Perfumes | Elega...
• Iconic '90s Perfumes | My Complete Collect...
• Warm Autumnal AMBERS – Cosy Perfume Picks ...
• Affordable Vintage Perfumes/Fragrances | U...
• 80s PERFUMES | Iconic Vintage Fragrances
• Soapy, Fresh and Clean Perfumes for Hot Da...
• Massive Vintage Perfume Haul | Discovering...
• Vintage Vanilla Scents — Chic & Cosy Fragr...
• A Final Farewell
Reviews playlist: • AMARIGE de GIVENCHY (1991) | A Floral Like...
Perfumes mentioned: Sorry, there are far too many. I do articulate them clearly, but if anything is still unclear, don't hesitate to ask.
Disclaimer: This video sums up many of the things that have been on my mind lately. It has been in the making for a few months. Notice how I said “my mind”? That’s my opinion. You may have a different opinion, and as long as you express it civilly, we can agree to disagree.
Except for oakmoss, lily-of-the-valley, and IFRA documents, all footage is my own and was filmed by me in several perfume shops. I’m not affiliated with any brands in the video. I’m not sponsored by anyone. Everything — except Parfum d’Empire 3 Fleurs (gifted), Dolce & Gabbana Q (gifted family), and vintage minis (gifted by friends and subscribers) — was purchased by myself. The perfumes shown are part of my own collection and are not for sale. I do not know where, halfway across the world, you can buy them.
Sources:
https://www.fragrantica.com/news/Refo...
https://ifrafragrance.org/standards-l... - search for oakmoss or any other ingredient
https://d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net...
https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/chane...
Here are some other intersting videos relating to the topic from other creators:
• Why Are Fragrances Discontinued? Why Disco... by @dr.claire.perfume
• What Does Oakmoss Actually Smell Like? Rea... @CrazyNoseFragrance
• My 12 Favourite CHYPRE Fragrances @ouch110
About:
My name is Luke. I'm a perfume reviewer and storyteller, lover of all kinds of perfume, especially vintage, classic, designer and affordable scents. My tastes are quite eclectic. This channel is a creative outlet. Expect to see my collection, reviews, vlogs, perfume history, cultural commentary and more. If that’s your cup of tea, please consider subscribing to my channel. I always respond to your comments, and I'm very grateful for everyone's support.
✉️Contact me: ask.lukeparfums@gmail.com
🧡 Instagram, TikTok: lukeparfums
Music: YouTube Audio Library (Aurora on the Boulevard - National Sweetheart; Love's Aftermath - Asher Fulero)
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