Pillar #3 - How to Pick the Right Surfboard

Pillar three: match your surfboards to your reality. I love Drive to Survive as much as anyone, but you're not going to catch me driving Lewis Hamilton's Ferrari on the 405. Same goes for your boards. What John John and Filipe are riding is engineered for their ability at the highest level, and more often than not what I see at El Porto and around LA is people on equipment that's way too small for them. In this video I cover the signs you're on the wrong board: you've mapped the lineup, you're positioned well, you're starting your paddle early, and you're still not catching waves, still taking off too deep, still feeling unstable. I also get into why volume isn't everything, how the same liters can be distributed completely differently from one board to the next, and why the best move you can make is a real conversation with your local shaper about where you're at and where you're trying to go. After I stopped competing I surfed less and surfed worse waves, so I got off the high performance shortboard and onto boards that go fast, paddle easy and still maneuver. That's what we build at Pagan USA. If you want a board that fits where you're at now and gets you where you want to go, let us help you build one. www.paganusa.com