Pilar #4 - Best Surf Technique for Surfing in Los Angeles

Pillar four: surfing technique. There are a thousand voices out there on technique, so I'm giving you a few concrete through lines you can take into your next surf. First, you're never going to go faster than your fins. Chest up, weight centered, and when you stand up, don't jump into your first turn. Let the board run and let the water move under it so the rocker and outline engage curve to curve with the wave. Frontside, stay on your toe edge, push down the face out of the top third where the speed is, hand in the water on the bottom turn as a pivot point, release into the lip, and copy and paste that on every section. Backside, keep your lead shoulder open so you can see down the line, stay on your heel edge, grab rail on the bottom turn, drive the board up to the lip and squish the bug at the top. And through all of it, surf in a three foot radius, not point A to point Z. This is the last pillar and it ties the other three together. If you're increasing your wave count, positioning yourself with speed, riding the right equipment, and surfing with technique, you start with speed and end with more momentum than you started with. My goal is that you use all four in your next session. We run surf camps throughout the year and weekly camps too. Sign up for the newsletter at paganusa.com for updates on camps and new product. If you're looking for a board, email me at matt@paganusa.com and I'll design one for where you're at and where you want to go. Let's keep building. www.paganusa.com