Flames leap up, and the iron wok sizzles.

Many people who come to my stall are drawn in by the aroma first, not the sign. As soon as the meat skewers hit the grill, they sizzle, and the fat runs down along the grain, dripping into the charcoal and sending up a wisp of blue smoke. That sound is the most direct preview. Then the aroma of cumin and chili mingles with the fragrance of the meat and wafts into your nose. Anyone standing nearby simply can't stop themselves from salivating. I have one strict rule when choosing meat: it has to have a little fat to be flavorful. Pure lean meat turns out dry and tough when grilled, while a balance of lean and fatty meat is what makes it juicy, tender, and bursting with rich, savory aroma. Lamb skewers, pork belly, grilled eggplant, grilled chives... Every ingredient requires different heat and timing. Eggplant needs to be grilled until the minced garlic seeps into the flesh, chives need to be grilled until the edges curl slightly but don't wilt, and pork belly needs to be grilled until the edges curl up and the fat has been rendered out. That's when they look and taste their best.