Why You Should Never Surf

Surfing began as something sacred in ancient Hawaiʻi. It was nearly written off, kept alive by the people who invented it, and has cost some of its greatest riders their lives. This is the untold story, from the night at Mavericks in 1994 to “Eddie Would Go.” 0:00 The night at Mavericks 0:59 Wave sliding: where surfing began 1:53 Europeans arrive 2:33 The missionaries 3:08 The myth of surfing’s death 3:52 George Freeth takes surfing to California 4:28 Duke Kahanamoku 5:12 Eddie Aikau 6:09 Eddie Would Go 6:27 The ones the ocean took 7:12 Why it matters #surfing #hawaii #unitedstates #dangerzone #scarystories #sharks #bermuda #florida Sources: JSTOR Daily, “Did White People Really Revive Surfing?”; Museum of British Surfing, first European account of Hawaiian surfing; PBS SoCal, George Freeth; Wikipedia: History of Surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, Eddie Aikau, Mark Foo; Surfer Today, notable deaths in surfing.