NEVER Boil Your Potatoes Again, Try This Old Mexican Trick
Bertha Cooks и ещё 5
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NEVER Boil Your Potatoes Again, Try This Old Mexican Trick
65 600 просмотров · 7 дней назад
Bertha Cooks и ещё 5
65 600 просмотров · 7 дней назад
📖 Get La Cocina de Bertha, every recipe in this kitchen written down (500+ pages): https://berthascookbook.com
Look at the pot on your stove, mija. Water coming to a boil, cut potatoes waiting on the board. You are about to drop them in, because that is how a potato gets cooked in this country. And then you drain them and try to fry them, and either they fall apart into a wet gray mash, or they sit in the oil pale and soft and never crisp, and you turn the heat up and they go from soft to burnt without ever passing through golden. And somewhere along the way you decided crispy potatoes are a restaurant thing. Let me tell you the first thing before anything else: it was never your hands. A potato that went into water cannot come out of it and get crisp. The women on the ranches did it with one pan, one lid and a spoon of fat, and the potato never touched water at all. The trick is not an ingredient. It is a LID.
⚠️ AND I HAVE TO CORRECT MY OWN BOOK: on page 293, for the papas con chorizo, I wrote "boil the diced potatoes first," because raw potato fried in chorizo fat burns outside before it cooks inside. That reason is TRUE. But I gave you the slow fix. The ranch had a faster one, and it was sitting on top of the pot the whole time.
⭐ WHY THE WATER IS THE ENEMY
A potato is starch and water in little cells. Boil it and two bad things happen at once:
1. The outside takes on MORE water. The surface goes wet and the starch turns to a kind of glue. A wet, gluey surface cannot brown, because browning only starts once the surface is DRY, and a boiled potato is the wettest thing in your kitchen. The oil spends five minutes boiling the water off, the potato steams and falls apart before it can color.
2. Flavor LEAVES. Salt and the potato's own sweetness go into the water, and you pour it down the sink. Same law as the corn: water takes. Water never gives.
⭐ WHAT THE LID DOES (the whole trick)
Raw diced potato into hot fat, LID ON. The potato's own water turns to steam, the steam is trapped, and it cooks the potato through gently in its own moisture. It is steaming itself in a spoon of fat instead of a quart of water, and nothing leaches out because there is nowhere for it to go. Then LID OFF: the steam escapes, the surface dries in a minute, and the fat can finally do its job. Golden and crisp outside, already soft inside. The lid did the boiling, and it did it without water.
⭐ FULL METHOD (serves 4)
INGREDIENTS:
• 4 medium potatoes, yellow or russet (both work) · 2 Tbsp manteca or oil · 1/2 white onion, sliced · 1 serrano, sliced (or leave it out for the children) · salt
• FOR PAPAS CON CHORIZO: 300 g Mexican chorizo, casings off
1. THE CUT. Small dice, the size of the end of your thumb or smaller, ALL THE SAME SIZE, or some burn while others stay raw. Do not soak, do not rinse. Pat DRY. Dry potato is the whole beginning of this.
2. THE FAT. 2 Tbsp manteca in your WIDEST heavy pan, medium, until it shimmers. Wide, not deep: every piece must touch the pan. ONE LAYER. Two batches if your pan is small, and do not argue with me about it.
3. THE LID. Potatoes in, a good pinch of salt, one shake to coat. LID ON, 8 to 10 minutes. Do not stir. Shake the pan once or twice holding the lid down, but do not open it: every lift lets the steam out, and the steam is doing the cooking.
4. THE TEST AND THE REVEAL. At 8 minutes, knife into the biggest piece. Slides in with no argument = done inside. Pushes back = lid on, 2 more minutes. Then LID OFF, heat to medium-high, and LEAVE THEM ALONE. In about a minute the sound changes from a wet sizzle to a DRY CRACKLE and the bottoms go gold. Now turn them, once. 4 to 5 minutes uncovered, turning once or twice, until golden and crisp-edged.
⭐ PAPAS CON CHORIZO, in the right order:
• Chorizo in a SEPARATE dry pan while the potatoes are under the lid. COLD pan, medium heat, broken up, 8 minutes until the fat runs orange and the crumbles crisp. Well-fried chorizo is a seasoning so powerful the potatoes need almost nothing else. THE RENDERED FAT IS THE SAUCE. Do not drain it. Draining it is throwing away the recipe.
• Onion into the chorizo fat, 2 minutes. Then the serrano.
• Tip the crisp potatoes in and fold through ONCE, gently, so they stay crisp. Two parts potato to one part chorizo. Salt only at the end, only after tasting, because chorizo carries its own.
• Into a warm tortilla with a spoon of salsa. That taco fed the ranch for a hundred years.