Why My F-16 Paint Looks Different (Acrylic Ink Technique Explained)
The Inner Nerd Scale Modelling
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Why My F-16 Paint Looks Different (Acrylic Ink Technique Explained)
74 155 просмотров · 1 год назад
The Inner Nerd Scale Modelling
98,6 тыс. подписчиков
74 155 просмотров · 1 год назад
In this video I build, paint and weather Kinetic’s brand-new tool 1/48 F-16A MLU, and test a technique that completely changed how I approach modern jet finishes.
Instead of traditional pre-shading, I used acrylic artist inks layered beneath MRP lacquer to create subtle tonal variation and depth without harsh panel lines.
This method builds surface realism through controlled layering, not contrast tricks.
If you’ve been asking about the ink technique from my 100th build of Tamiya's Corsair F4U-1A or Olive Drab P-51B, this is the full process demonstrated step by step.
✈️ What’s Covered in This Build
• Cockpit assembly and shadow-based painting
• Seam correction on the intake
• Priming with Mr Surfacer (black & grey)
• Acrylic ink mottling technique (white & black layers)
• Sealing safely between ink layers
• MRP Light Ghost Grey application
• Oil rendering and restrained modern jet weathering
• Field repair touch-ups and panel variation
• Final finish and surface unification
This is not a “fast build.”
It’s about patience, layering, and subtle realism.
🎨 The Acrylic Ink Layering Method
The core steps:
Apply Tamiya X-20A thinner directly to the surface
Add a thin layer of acrylic ink
Allow to partially dry
Tap gently with a stiff brush dampened in X-20A
Seal with lacquer gloss (non-acrylic)
Repeat with darker tones
Blend beneath your main paint colour
The key is restraint.
You’re disturbing the ink, so lets not wash it away!
Done correctly, it creates depth that survives through multiple paint layers.
🛠 Products Used
Kit:
Kinetic 1/48 F-16A MLU (New Tool for 2022)
Paints & Finishing:
MRP Light Ghost Grey
Mr Surfacer 1500 Black
Mr Surfacer 1000 Grey
Mr Color GX100 Gloss
Mr Color Semi-Gloss Clear
Pebeo Acrylic Inks
Winsor & Newton Oils
AMMO A-Stand Gloss Black Primer
Citadel Metallics
Adhesives:
Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
5-Minute Epoxy (for final assembly)
AMMO Ultra Glue (clear parts & small details)
All tools and materials are linked below.
Using those links supports the channel at no extra cost to you, thank you.
Airbrushing Equipment for Beginners:
Gravity Feed Airbrush Beginner Set: https://amzn.to/4gvh4th
Beginner Compressor: https://amzn.to/4gMwXvF
My Airbrush (H&S Evo Silverline): https://amzn.to/4gJnvJo
Airbrush Holder: https://amzn.to/3MSmBwb
Acetone (for cleaning Mr Surfacer Primer): https://amzn.to/4ddNJAG
Cleaning Alcohol (for cleaning Tamiya/ AK Real Colours paints): https://amzn.to/3Zs9IRb
Model Making Tools for Beginners;
Tamiya Extra Thin Cement: https://amzn.to/4df7urD
Loctite Superglue: https://amzn.to/3MWkyYd
2-Part Epoxy Glue: https://amzn.to/3BwXsFA
Xuron Sprue Cutters: https://amzn.to/4gsoVXY
Tamiya Pin Vise: https://amzn.to/3XQLGOn
Superfine Drill Bits: https://amzn.to/3XOFeHR
Proxxon Power Tool: https://amzn.to/4gvU79f
📚 Reference Material
Weathering and tonal variation were based on real reference photography.
I always recommend studying real aircraft closely before applying oils or panel effects.
(You can find my reference board linked below.)
📌 https://www.pinterest.co.uk/theinnern...
🎯 Why This Matters
Modern jets don’t have black panel lines.
They have layered paint, touch-ups, fading, and subtle tonal shifts.
This build is about replicating that without exaggeration.
If you found this helpful:
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🛠 Share it with another modeller
📌 Leave your thoughts in the comments
I’m Matt - The Inner Nerd.
Thanks for watching.
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Chapters
00:33 - 07:40 The Build
07:41 - 17:48 The Paint
17:49 - 19:11 The Markings
19:12 - 29:54 The Weathering
29:55 - 32:33 Final Assembly