22. China Travels: The Simatai Great Wall—Peaks and Precipices

If the Great Wall is a giant dragon winding through the mountains and rivers of northern China, then a specific section deep within the Yan Mountains of Beijing’s Miyun District seems to capture the dragon’s most primal form. Here, there are no gentle, broad ridges; instead, the landscape is defined by steep peaks, narrow ramparts, precipitous slopes, and watchtowers built directly into the mountainside. This is the Simatai Great Wall. Located north of Simatai Village in Gubeikou Town, Miyun District, Beijing—adjacent to the Gubeitai Water Town and approximately 120 kilometers from downtown Beijing—this section stretches about 5.7 kilometers from Wangjing Tower in the east to Houchuankou in the west. Built against the rugged terrain of the Yan Mountains, it is bisected into eastern and western sections by the Yuanyang Lake Reservoir, which flows beneath the wall. Thirty-five watchtowers are scattered across the ridges; some stand majestically atop peaks, others cling to sheer cliffs, and some are perched upon incredibly narrow mountain spines. Standing here, one realizes that the wall’s magnificence stems not merely from its length, but from its breathtaking integration with the natural contours of the mountains.