Ciro Biondi of Azienda Agricola Biondi on the unique terroir of Mount Etna, Sicily

Azienda Agricola Biondi’s vineyards on the southeast slope of Mount Etna have been in the family since the 1600s, though the winery itself was formally established at the end of the 19th century. The estate reached its peak between the two world wars under brothers Cirino and Salvatore Biondi, before falling into decades of decline after World War II. In 1999, Cirino’s grandson Ciro Biondi and his wife Stephanie took over the management of the vineyards and winemaking, restoring the family’s six hectares and refocusing on high-quality, terroir-driven wines from Etna’s indigenous varieties. In this episode, Grape Collective speaks with Ciro about the unique volcanic terroir of Etna and how different lava flows—even just a few hundred meters apart—create strikingly different wines from the same grapes and vinification methods. He shares the family’s history, from his grandfather’s award-winning pre–World War I wines to the 40-year period when the estate was nearly abandoned, and explains how the new generation of Etna producers has helped bring neglected land back to life. Ciro discusses his philosophy of “respect, respect, respect” for nature in the vineyard, a minimalist approach in the cellar, and why he believes wine should be as drinkable as water yet full of flavor. The conversation also explores the “Burgundian” nature of Etna’s micro-terroirs, the role of biodiversity in the vineyards (from fruit trees to olive trees), the cultural significance of traditional training systems like alberello, and the historic palmento where generations of his family once stomped grapes by foot. Ciro reflects on the changing wine community on Etna, the influx of outsiders, and his hopes for the region’s future: that it remains a place where history, landscape and artisanal winemaking continue to shape wines of elegance, minerality and longevity. More winemaker interviews and wine stories at https://www.grapecollective.com Grape Collective. Points of View. Not Points.