EP3 基本抓法(中):Sloper Grip、Drag、Half Crimp、Crimp、Full Crimp
二教練
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EP3 基本抓法(中):Sloper Grip、Drag、Half Crimp、Crimp、Full Crimp
761 просмотр · 13 дн. назад
二教練
228 подписчиков
761 просмотр · 13 дн. назад
📖 補充說明
1. Full Crimp外的四種抓法,拇指除了「捏」、「扣」、「併」之外,還可以「搭」在與四指同一個施力的表面上(如果有空間的話),來增加抓點強度。
📚 參考資料 References
【書籍 Books】
Hague, D. & Hunter, D. (2006). The Self-Coached Climber. Stackpole Books. Ch. 2.
易思婷(2013)。《一攀就上手!基礎攀岩一次就學會》。麥田。p. 30。
Mansfield, P. J. & Neumann, D. A.(2013)。《基礎肌動學》。郭怡良、李映琪編譯。臺灣愛思唯爾。第 7 章。
MacLeod, D. (2015). Make or Break: Don’t Let Climbing Injuries Dictate Your Success. Rare Breed Productions. Sec. 3 & 8.
Feehally, N. (2021). Beastmaking: A Fingers-First Approach to Becoming a Better Climber. Vertebrate Publishing. pp. 38–39.
【研究文獻 Research】
Vigouroux, L., Quaine, F., Labarre-Vila, A. & Moutet, F. (2006). Estimation of finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during specific sport-climbing grip techniques. Journal of Biomechanics, 39(14), 2583–2592.DOI: 10.1016/j.jbiomech.2005.08.027
Quaine, F., Vigouroux, L., Paclet, F. & Colloud, F. (2011). The thumb during the crimp grip. International Journal of Sports Medicine, 32(1), 49–53.DOI: 10.1055/s-0030-1267230
Ebben, W. P. (2006). A brief review of concurrent activation potentiation: Theoretical and practical constructs. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 20(4), 985–991.DOI: 10.1519/R-19375.1
【影片 Video】
Lattice Training. (2026). A Deep Dive into EVERY Climbing Grip Type. YouTube.